Finally broke out the "spare" small-sized EG bought early last year and got it up and running.
Specification wise-- the only difference is a 1.5" in seat tube length and 0.75' effective top tube. Standover, headtube length and everything else is exactly the same-- or at least that's what it shows on paper...
All essential fitting measurements matched to the closest possible (+/0.25") has been achieved with the exception of bar height that is intentional due to the purpose of the second EG-- Optimize for climbs. Not that the older EG is lacking but at 37lb it's getting a bit heavy for weekly trail riding and pitting the XCers.
Choice of bar/ stem for new rig based on calculations from some previous configs on the older EG optimized for climbs. Basically longer stem and flat bar vs riser with a stubbie that is more for the descends and jumps.
Unexpected but in a nice way-- this "XC" setup on the smaller EG together with its tighter wheelbase and a couple of minor differences rail corners like a Moto GP.
Longer stem lower bar height bias for a more forward weight distribution apart from making the climbing better (as in less tiring over longer or more techie ascending sections) probably has a lot to do with the "did I just rail the last corner that frigging low" factor.
|Same arm reach and saddle height and saddle to pedal length etc ... Height difference in top tube mostly due due camera angle|
The key is always about compensating my few critical measurements when a different component is changed.
Good thing I've been keeping a a log of all the changes on my bikes to be able to build it mentally knowing exactly what to expect of the fitting and measurements...
To compensate for short stem/ long bar combo, the "default" for descending runs on a long travel bike, and still optimize for climbs usually is a matter of shortening up the arm reach and sit more upright.
Caught in between sizes, my older medium EG is getting everything shortened to the max. Running 750-760mm bars with a 35mm stubbie and saddle pushed forward, there really isnt much more to "make things any smaller"
While optimized in this manner presents no problem with climbing-- still the fact that leverage from a longer stem mated to flat bars being an advantage on the up is undeniable... On a long hard climb, I often wish for a longer stem but not if I have to shift forward so much on the saddle that it comes at the expense of losing rear wheel traction. That from all the years of riding also tells me Im overstretching.. the cramping calves and lower back pain is soon to follow.
On the small frame the reverse is not as difficult. Shortening the front but to keep arm reach similar-- its just a matter of sliding the seat rails back and or with a setback post. Optimal saddle height can probably take a small hike up as well...
Not that I will be going for a 3rd piece of the same frame but really the small would seem a better option if there is only 1 bike but having some components to swap it around for a "descending" oriented or "climbing" day...
As tested out on yesterday maiden offroad on EG2... despite being a granny handicapped 1x9, the overall lighter build and the climb setup easily took on the "pedals down" traps-- loose over hardpack incline sections... The only thing about now not having a granny to bail out is to read the lines more carefully and further ahead than if the granny is there... well well all the old familiar xc feelings are coming back now..
[13 Oct] With a little bit more time this morning and a minor change to a 70mm stem, everything's narrowed down.
|Frivolous dieting or performance enhancement?|
A little bit of both I would say...
Less than stellar performance on the really loose all boils down to the mal-rebuild of the fork (too damped). A quick dirty fix on the trail by fully opening up the lo-comp helped much on the loose chunky climbs.
Was stoked with how the bike rails last week despite reservations with my old 2.4 Ardents that were transferred over to this build. Getting more comfy with the setup by now, I pushed the corners even harder... hmmm better side knob tires would definitely do even better! Thinking of the Schwalbe Hans Dampf Trailstar variant.... Can't really get my mind off those big squishy, and definitely grabby side knobs now..
The "one-with-the-bike" feel extends to all the more effort requiring moves being easier. Was popping off with lots of small but actual bunny-hop and pedal punches over the roots even in the tight twisty section. A lighter bike like now definitely helps too.
Geo and setup tweak done? Pretty much.
[22 Oct 12]
Not much to tinker except dropping sensible weight. I really hope the 34mm stanchions 160 forks will live up to it. The36 now clears everything but dropping another pound or so off the front would definitely increase the "surge" on a out-of-saddle-power sprint up....
[27 Nov 12]
A month plus now with all wet rides and an expensive mistake dropping weight further with what I thought might be good enough size but light tires later...