an(e)vil

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Existentialism-- Just a bloody good excuse to go riding...
Showing posts with label EG. Show all posts
Showing posts with label EG. Show all posts

Sunday, May 4, 2014

El Guapo


EL Wadever: "Big, Fat, Small, Tall, Limpeh ride them all"-- the bike say one.. not me hor.
5 years and 9 days since the first ride... bikes come and bikes go but not this one.
The recent builds and changes to the quiver is a nice distraction but still... the EG stands.

4 forks, 5 shocks and a ton of posts, saddles, stems, bars and rubbers. 11 distinct configurations anywhere from "XC" to "DH" or as close to each of these disciplines of riding... THE ONE f'cking bike that rules them all.

Ok back to being a nondescript trail rig and even spotting a rigid post for now... till it gets called up for various riding duties once again...

Sunday, October 7, 2012

A Tale of 2 EGs...

42 months on the med EG, I'm still left wondering if a small would be a better fit for my 5'10" height and 30.5" inseam...

Finally broke out the "spare" small-sized EG bought early last year and got it up and running.

Specification wise-- the only difference is a 1.5" in seat tube length and 0.75' effective top tube. Standover, headtube length and everything else is exactly the same-- or at least that's what it shows on paper...

All essential fitting measurements matched to the closest possible (+/0.25") has been achieved with the exception of bar height that is intentional due to the purpose of the second EG-- Optimize for climbs. Not that the older EG is lacking but at 37lb it's getting a bit heavy for weekly trail riding and pitting the XCers.

Choice of bar/ stem for new rig based on calculations from some previous configs on the older EG optimized for climbs. Basically longer stem and flat bar vs riser with a stubbie that is more for the descends and jumps.

Unexpected but in a nice way--  this "XC" setup on the smaller EG together with its tighter wheelbase and a couple of minor differences rail corners like a Moto GP.

Longer stem lower bar height bias for a more forward weight distribution apart from making the climbing better (as in less tiring over longer or more techie ascending sections) probably has a lot to do with the "did I just rail the last corner that frigging low" factor.

Same arm reach and saddle height and saddle to pedal length etc ... Height difference in top tube mostly due due camera angle



The key is always about compensating my few critical measurements when a different component is changed.
Good thing I've been keeping a a log of all the changes on my bikes to be able to build it mentally knowing exactly what to expect of the fitting and measurements...



To compensate for short stem/ long bar combo, the "default" for descending runs on a long travel bike, and still optimize for climbs usually is a matter of shortening up the arm reach and sit more upright.

Caught in between sizes, my older medium EG is getting everything shortened to the max. Running 750-760mm bars with a 35mm stubbie and saddle pushed forward, there really isnt much more to "make things any smaller"

While optimized in this manner presents no problem with climbing-- still the fact that leverage from a longer stem mated to flat bars being an advantage on the up is undeniable... On a long hard climb, I often wish for a longer stem but not if I have to shift forward so much on the saddle that it comes at the expense of losing rear wheel traction. That from all the years of riding also tells me Im overstretching.. the cramping calves and lower back pain is soon to follow.

On the small frame the reverse is not as difficult. Shortening the front but to keep arm reach similar-- its just a matter of sliding the seat rails back and or with a setback post. Optimal saddle height can probably take a small hike up as well...

Not that I will be going for a 3rd piece of the same frame but really the small would seem a better option if there is only 1 bike but having some components to swap it around for a "descending" oriented or "climbing" day...

As tested out on yesterday maiden offroad on EG2... despite being a granny handicapped 1x9, the overall lighter build and the climb setup easily took on the  "pedals down" traps-- loose over hardpack incline sections... The only thing about now not having a granny to bail out is to read the lines more carefully and further ahead than if the granny is there... well well all the old familiar xc feelings are coming back now..





[13 Oct] With a little bit more time this morning and a minor change to a 70mm stem, everything's narrowed down.
Frivolous dieting or performance enhancement?
A little bit of both I would say...

Less than stellar performance on the really loose all boils down to the mal-rebuild of the fork (too damped). A quick dirty fix on the trail by fully opening up the lo-comp helped much on the loose chunky climbs.

Was stoked with how the bike rails last week despite reservations with my old 2.4 Ardents that were transferred over to this build. Getting more comfy with the setup by now, I pushed the corners even harder... hmmm better side knob tires would definitely do even better! Thinking of the Schwalbe Hans Dampf Trailstar variant.... Can't really get my mind off those big squishy, and definitely grabby side knobs now..

The "one-with-the-bike" feel extends to all the more effort requiring moves being easier. Was popping off with lots of small but actual bunny-hop and pedal punches over the roots even in the tight twisty section. A lighter bike like now definitely helps too.

Geo and setup tweak done? Pretty much.


[22 Oct 12]
Not much to tinker except dropping sensible weight. I really hope the 34mm stanchions 160 forks will live up to it. The36 now clears everything but dropping another pound or so off the front would definitely increase the "surge" on a out-of-saddle-power sprint up....

[27 Nov 12]

A month plus now with all wet rides and an expensive mistake dropping weight further with what I thought might be good enough size but light tires later... 
 Ok it was fun getting back into that quick sprinting XC mode for awhile but nah... this is still the sh!tz I dig. Big fat tires and a jump friendly cockpit... Almost identical to the heavier EG but the weigght difference and quicker to adjust air boinks on both ends --it just makes that 2ft bunnyhop from flat almost a possibility....

Saturday, September 29, 2012

EG2

Signature /||| crimp on the end cap.The last thing done on all my builds. A way of telling myself that everything has been given a final check and ready to roll.



A smaller frame with a setup to go a little faster...  Lighter tires and some of the other stuffs arent here yet but already the effects of a shorter wheelbase and a more XC-ish set up with the contact points makes this feels a lot more nimble. Like a quick moving 5" rather than the 6" it actually is.






















Friday, September 28, 2012

Build Time II



...from previous post, bike is pretty much up. Gotta tidy up the cables and its good for a test ride later.

Succumbing to the beckon of the LEV. Got to rid a few other posts now. Well more on the LEV later with a review to follow as usual...


 Along the way












Wednesday, September 26, 2012

Build time

It's been awhile... actually kinda long not to be building a new bike. The '10 EG frame been sitting around for almost 2 years now. Yup one of those that went on a blow out after Titus collapse when the new owners just took over.. Next came the "V2" and now the "V3" EGs...

Paralleling many of the evolutionary trends in the natural world and the biking industry as a whole, everything gets oriented towards being lighter than ever.. tapered headtubes, optimizing for shorter but lighter class of fork!!

Pricing for these new EGs are good too. So much so it seem to make my rather antique "V1" now seem rather overpriced . BUT truth be told, I'm actually glad hanging on to this than grabbing one of the newer ones.

Nothing's ever perfect but there wasn't much to complain over on the older frames. Whatever I thought should be "improvements"  were not a part of those changes made on the V2 and V3... Changes on the newer variants might be a good thing for some but suffice to say, not for me.

Things "evolved" to a point where its hard to be as surefire when others seeked my opinion on the frame. The present configs now would suggest a final build that is a departure from its original intent.

Pretty sure it still can be built up into something bigger than the contemporary worldview of "Light Long Travel AM" or whatever oxymoronic classification is rocking the mtb world these days.... but that kind of thought might just be relegated to the die hard conservatives like yours truly with a preference for overbuilt qualities and considerations for longevitiy to cater for underskilled stupidities (of the rider).

Still having said, I'm setting out now to build a budget "weenie" second EG. Let's just see what the good ol' frames  are capable of.... 

Target: 1 x 9, decent sized tires (2.25??) correct type of fork and a couple of modern day frills like adjustable seatpost... under 28.5lb


Caught in between sizes isnt such a bad thing after all... EG2 is a small and complete with shock would qualify as a rather light 6" frame-- sans carbon of course
Small 2010 El Guapo Ano Brown  Sub 3kg. Complete with a Monarch RT3

Cockpit: 736gm as of now. But given the swapping fetish in this area of a bike, chances are it wont look quite as is by final build/ setup.
1-Ring "OREO" System: 838gm. Pared and stripped almost to minimum.. debating a few gm saving of alloy ring bolts over the steel that would see some force generated due to the 1 ring nature riding of this contraption.
Fresh off the truing stand.. 1.92kg. 



Wheelset isn't as light as originally intended but for peace of mind, nipples gravited back to brass as opposed to colored bling ano-alloy bits. Stan rim tape s are on the porky side of things but tubeless ready. Something I never contemplate in past but now could consider... Quite sure the next few days would be spent debating to "tube or to -less"

Alchemied Air Vengeance... should hit the scale at ~2.27kg once steerer gets chopped




Having the same one on the El Getsugatensho for 4 years.. light and strong. A headset I reviewed previously and swear by. So same is going on the EG2 now. 

Would qualify as one of the light weights previously. But by today's standard, sub 250gm flats exhibiting similar footprint is pretty common. Still pretty acceptable and offers an area on the bike should I really "need" to drop a hundred or so grams off the final build with something lighter later on.



More later...








Sunday, March 25, 2012

Back -- on the bike

No better time to get back on the bike after a full rebuild. Yea that pretty much gets it back into the "brand new first ride condition" sans fitting woes as all the familiar settings and components are in place...well just about the same as this is the virgin ride on the new Vengeance Coil 170mm thats been sitting in the box for far too long.

Finally caught up with Chris whom I have exchanged much info online but so far has only been hi-bye when we see each other on the trails. Both our bikes are setup strikingly similar. With similar physique we just swap over  and was comfortable with each other's rig in mid trail.

Not the first Nomad I have ridden but this one needed not even a single adjustment and I have to admit it feels just as good. In fact with the tubeless and slightly softer suspension setup, I would say it has that advantage over my EG on today's spin.

As I was posting up this pic on FB it strikes me that it looks like a shooutout page on some MTB mag. Same class of rigs spotting different competing components. All it needs is one of us to switch over to the SRAM camp to make the picture complete... speaking of which that wouldn't likely be yours truly... die hard Shimano  since 1983.


Great ride.. sweltering 34 Celcius at the start that cooled off as tropical rain clouds came just as we finished up. More on the new fork later in its own review but -- nothing major to bitch about as we rode the mother of all xc trails around this island. Short steep technical climbs punctuating the whole way, with the Vengeance Coil 170mm A-C comparable to that of a 180mm fork... it didnt make anything harder than the 160mm forks I had before.  Bar height setup adjusted to counter the difference.

Best thing that happens today-- no mud smooching up my spanking new rebuild :D 

Sadly my wide butt seems to be having a major disagreement with the sleek Fizik Tundra that has been color matched to the hilt with the new EG theme. Not even my ultimate butt-saver, De-Soto Tri seat cover can mediate their quarrel. My butt wins-- the Fizik will have to make way, its back to the old time proven WTB Silverado for El Getsugatensho.



Saturday, March 17, 2012

EG: A Total Rebuild...

With the recent demise of my Podium pedals, along came an orchestra of squeaks on the bike. Loads of things have been neglected for a while... and it's taking forever this time to rebuild a bike... Can't seem to shake off the lethargy and procrastination...

Didn't look so bad from a glance... just lots of left over mud stain and couple of surface rust on bolts...
Pic taken to remember how cables are routed as I don't use much of the guides on the frame except for the rear brake.
Its a good idea to snap some "before" pics prior to a tear down. Especially if you don't run your parts like cables via the default routing. Everyone has their own little ways to make things work. You might think u can remember, afterall it was all your own DIY. Trust me... once u take them out-- the memories somehow gets synchronized to be erased from your brain at the same time....


Ok this I have to admit is a somewhat more neglected part than most on the bike.. Hidden behind chain guide and crank, the main pivot bolt wouldnt be something I would want to fiddle with on the usual. But 3 years with the last year a never ending onslaught of mud fest on most rides-- finally things have taken its toll as pics show.

TIP... if its extremely tight when removing a main pivot pin or bolts from rockers..make sure that they are being worked on from a neutral position. Top right pic-- with frame pressing on the ground trying to get the bolt out wasn't a good idea.. -- really tight as front and back is probably flexing while the bolt is being impinged in the middle. Found the best position by flipping frame over and holding rear tri with one hand and working out bolt with the other... whenever it feels tight, lift or lower the rear tri a little and feel things ease off... Not shown here but its the same with rocker bolts -- hold onto to rear tri so that the weight is not acting against the bolts as you get them out-- otherwise there could be some nasty surprise in store as i have learned by now... A repair stand is good for most work but not when taking apart hinged parts like frames.


[Edit] While play was detected in the main pivot, the 3 year old Horst links were still tight as day one. The alloy spacer (aka Pivot Pin??) was ok-- no excessive wear and when cleaned, light oiled and slotted with the new Igus bushing on both sides, all seems good to go. But it was really about time too as one of the bolts is just ever so slightly getting bent. Main pivot is a write-off though..from the way it was scraping the old bearings inside and the resultant dinks on it-- both this and the bearings are confirmed toasts.


After that it was a trip down to Dirty's place. Bearing tools arent something I can justify buying yet, especially if you have easy access to friends that have them ;p

And I was right-- the 4 x 6802 bearings were completely totalled. One actually disintegrated on its way out as seen above. Back home it was time to take a look at the rocker bearings which being just changed a few months back, only needed some grease stuffed in.



Rear Shock cleaned up, piggy resevoir topped back up to my psi setting, bb bearing checked and regrease... time to put things back. Followed by some decals doubled over with window films on the usual cable rub spots.


Still, it doesnt look like its gonna be finished anytime soon. Decided I'm done with those shifter cable guides I never used. Drilled them out for full cable housing to go thru instead of bunching all to the brake cable like before.

... Almost forgotten. My new fork! Ok... same old routine "measure 10 times, mark, tape, locked down with el cheapo homemade "saw'guide".... Damn! Need a new saw blade... arrghhh got to wait till tomorrow again.

And its a bad bad idea.. never strip more than one bike down. Not ever in a small confined cell. Much less 4 bikes! What the hell was I thinking of...





Fast forward to a...Lazy Sunday.

Paranoia says to measure another 10 more times even though everything was marked up the night before... Steerer cut, headset cleaned and bearings repacked. Front porked up by half a pound over the old fork...

Cable Management

Often one of the most visibly neglected parts on many bikes or simply suffer from poor bike building. That is cable lengths are incorrect. Many a times simply following the default cable routing on the guides on the frames without further thought if things makes sense. I have pretty much troubleshooted the various issues and modded before albeit not often the best looking. Decide to get these done properly once and for all.

Sick and tired of chafed housing? Its a nuisance especially with full sussers.. Double up the protection where the usual spots will occur. Snipped off old plastic cable ferrules and antiquated v-brakes noodles are great to have. Found more usage of bits that most would have junked out from their tool boxes a long time ago...


No as if I'm in any hurry... decide to apply my usual dose of el cheapo DIY. Decaling that doubles up as frame protection and cabling aesthetics instead relying on old mangy velcro from before...


If there is anything "wrong" with the EG it has to be the cable guides on the headtube. Pretty ridiculous to bunch it up front running long bars. To leave enough cables for the bar to turn a 180 degrees during a crash would loop the cables way too forward. FUGLY.  Even then it tends to pull the cable, stretching it. Thus apart from licking your wound mid trail you will have to get down and fiddle with the bike to get it to shift properly to get you home.
Some has argued that not using the provided guides will result in cables getting hooked on the top of the fork. Now that's just cables being too long and not secured at the right places beneath the top tubes. Tagging cables that run together is always a good idea as it reduces the messy look. Otherwise let them run parallel where possible (see left shifter and rear brake hose). Apart from aesthetics there is also a functional side. On night rides, one of the thing robbing precious lumens and casting funny shadows from your front light would be cables. One of the thing I really dislike about most lights is that they are mounted above the bar and off-centered. Something I just cannot agree with visually. Much prefer something central and in front of the stem... something that can be done with cables out of the way now and my DIY lighting mount...

And finally triple-film wraps on stays instead of the usual bulky protector and inner tube wraps for both aesthetics and functionality... these window films are some tough little mothers.. Made some triple layer with a thin decal sheet in the middle. Always wanted more black on the rear tri and Titus never seem to make a rear black triangle for the EG.

Reborn. The "EL Getsugatensho"  theme.. for the Bleach anime lovers, you'll know what I mean.










 





Thursday, July 7, 2011

Broken Bolts

Guess no matter how much caution is exercised.. some things will break after awhile.

Always dread the popping sound whenever removing the alu bolts from the bike's rocker. That hollow alu-alu release fills up the whole room with a resounding *crack* when each one is loosen even though its never over torqued. Was just thinking how long before the original ones will hold... luckily gotten some spares recently.

Decided to change out the old worn bearings and finally tonight 2 of the 4 alu bolts that came on the EG gave way. Nightmare... was prepping the bike for next week's trip to Penang. WTF!

Ok settled the new bearings first while thinking what to do next...

Drill it out like stuck bolts of SPD cleats?
More careful drilling and slowly increase bit size and hope it s thin enuf to be loose an finger the remaining bits out?
Buy a reverse tap tomorrow and then go about it...

Nah... things like that just irks me... Ok who else to call but John and we just went thru the scenarios of how badly each of the above I can screw up and his experience dealing with such things in the shop.

Drill's battery fully charged....ok so its a do or die moment...
Checking the bolts that came out-- the material seems pretty soft and the drilling method might work... I have one shot with one of them-- the one that broke off on the screwthreads on the rear triangle. The other had 2 positions and in the worst case scenario I could use the other position for the rocker pemanently.

As I was drilling.. struck me that since rounded hex bolts can be removed by jamming a bigger torx key-- if i drill small and deep enough--that might work. Provided the threads parts were not seized tight. Doesnt seem to be as I detect just that wee bit of wiggling when nudging a blunt punch in the hole i just drilled.

Ok long story short, 1hr of cold sweat, 2 cups of my favourite Jasmine Tea and 50 F-words later-- the hex key method worked. Luckily!

Repeated with the other broken piece and refined the torx key method using a mini screwdriver instead. Even easier this time around....

Whew... no need to cannibalize my spare EG for next week..........


From top left: (1) How much bushing wear from 2 years of riding, used ones sandwiched between new bushing stack.  (2) Damnit! Drill damnit drill.

Bottom left: (3)..nice and easy, now come out baby...slooooowly
(4) Stuck and unstuck again! Hmmm and how did 2 of the bearing seals get a similar kind and size of crushing? Bushing wear causing play and compressed over time?

Thursday, April 14, 2011

Diverse Dueler

The painstaking homework paid off for hunt of the front end suspension with the Vengeance HLR. So the last piece of the puzzle rest with replacing hopefully what is an almost 2 year old rear shock. In a market dominated by a few key brands, it's not easy to find a good product that withstand the rigors of modern day mountain biking. Pitting head on with the best or even outdo the performance of some of the Big Boys' models but yet remains well priced.

El Cheapo was adamant to find options to the "Cheaperest and Betterest" components; in line with one of the main intention behind this blog. A By Rider for Riders approach to help as many who are interested in this sports of ours but sometimes not knowing where to look.

From the pictures circulating around the web, frankly speaking the Diverse Dueler was not some love at first sight find.  But I do have to say that no others comes close when it narrows solely to just the "love" on the price tag.

For a coil shock under USD400 (then when I was looking), with one of the industry's best, Diverse own DSP Ti Spring, nothing comes close. The price is even lower now but recently it seems they are only selling to distributors and not to end customers anymore. As usual, with Dirty around, no worries, I always get my toys somehow. Now that I have gotten my hands on the actual thing, the odd mixture of "industrial-looking-slapped-with a la designer-cursive-fonts" actually looks quite good. No rainbow mix of colors on the knobs is a plus for me... adding to a no non-sense look if you are into that sort of scheme for your bike

Close Up and Specs

Shock finishing on close up looks nice with thick anodizing (those you know at first glance that would survive more than a few superficial knocks and still remains intact for the lifetime of the shock)

Very snug fit with the coil on both ends with the stopper and preload ring.  Stopper ring is machined with a recess that fits to the bottom out bumper, making everything more secure.

A rather long but soft bottom out bumper that makes a difference whenever you get to the bottom of a stroke. Probably contributes to the "bottomeless" feel I had while testing it out. Bumper end that comes into contact with the damper/seal area has some raised bits. This looks to prevents the bumper from slamming into and damaging the shaft/seal area. Nice touch!

Size of the piggy  resevoir is neither too small or overly fat like some others on the market-- any coil users would know the associated bane of a fat piggy that is too close to the coil or one too small and takes forever to fidget and dial the shock in properly.

PRC Adjustment, not available on this 8.5 x 2.5 size (only for the longer 9.5 and 10.5" sizes)
Hi & Low Compression involves separate Circuits. No clicks but with ~2.5 full turns for fine tuning
Adjustable Rebound. It is known that there are various rebound needles and I have asked for a slower one. Again non indented and has a total of 7 revolutions for tuning
Pedal platforming on the Dueler-- None, in any case my take has always been that if a shock is properly designed why bother with platforming! Compression adjustments would be more crucial and whether these works are more importantly than another dial to lock things back into "hardtail" mode which doesnt do squat for needed traction on the trail.

Plastic sleeve on shock body included. Nice little touch as coils tend to knock on the shock body creating ugly marks and indentations. Many of us have DIY with heat shrink or inner tubes to protect this area in the past. Nothing needed to be done here. With mounting hardware pressed in.. its plug n play without further ado.

Weight: Pretty impressive. Under 700gm with a 400lb x 2.5" DSP Ti Coil (including eyelet bushing but no mounting hardware). Complete shock alone including hardware but without spring is 413gm. The few extra grams on the stopper ring with the machined feature to seat the bumper thus helping to secure the ring. Something gladly welcome to reduce any unwanted movement as the bike starts pounding away.



First impression after examining is that being a supplier of coil spring for other makes of shock--I guess they have the benefit of making everything fit nicely and working out the little nuances as opposed to just most shocks fitting on an aftermarket spring only worrying if the OD matches their shock.


"Static" Impression

First few words that came to mind is reactive, stictionless and lots of sag which actually led me to an "Uh Oh" moment.. I  used an old Diverse 400 lb spring from my existing shock (and kept the shiny new one...err shiny?)... it felt distinctively softer and I was wondering if I should have gone one up to a 450lb spring in the first place.  Seems like the degree of valving is definitely very different. Having gotten used to the firmer feel of the DHX, it was worrying with the new found plushness on the Dueler... "How will it corner? Will it lose speed as it sucks the living daylight out of my 6 inch rear travel?..." are just some of the things that comes to mind. All of these were just the initial impression of sitting on the bike with the new shock and already feeling a whole load of differences without a pedal stroke.

These worries are valid, While not rocking a full DH bike but a 36lb 6x6 full sus is no weenie skinny either and if there is too much wallow, any chance to keep up with some of the XC boys on my usual rides would be next to impossible.


Initial dialling-in and ride impressions
after checking up the Diverse site for the shock setup, I decided to forgo those guidelines as it seems to be geared towards the bigger DH sized shocks by starting with Hi Comp dialling. Picked our favorite local rooty trail as the day's testbed, the initial Hi and Lo comp were set to 50/50% and rebound at a slower 40% from full out for my 76kg geared up weight.

While the shock is very reactive in the first half, the small bump compliance at this setting was nothing to rave about..in fact much like the old DHX it just replaced, Or thats what I initially thought.... a kilometer in and a few tweaks later everything transformed.

Try stepping out of a Cessna into a F15 fighter jet (ok fine fine, I'll admit, have never flew a plane in my life). Reduced the Lo comp and drop the rebound further to ~35% from max. The bike now eats up every piece of root, small rocks and trail irregularities. This despite tire pressure being higher than what I would normally ride (from the night before when hopping on concrete flats and not remembering to dial down to the usual trail riding pressure).

Not quite believing how different the bike feels, I kept going back after a few particularly nasty sections and pedal through them again and again. It was always the same, foot not missing a pedal and on a few bigger fast hits, there were no sudden spike that throws the bike off. This would be attributed to the Hi Compression doing its bit.

The internals of suspension are still a mystery to me just as I have said a few months back with a fork review. But at least after some reading up now, its not too hard to guess what went right or wrong when testing these components out. Certainly a lighter valving relative to my old shock is producing wonders with the Dueler on the EG. As to whether a thicker (12mm diameter) and lighter alu damper rod helps to make that difference is really beyond me. After checking the factory piggy shock setting, I pump it back up to 150 psi, close the cap and didnt fiddle anymore on the trail.

While resting in the shades after three run on the same trail that got progressively faster... it dawned on me that the initial "Uh Oh" worries had not manifested. Sure there is more sag on the same spring used. But my pedals have not sunk any lower on power strokes. Otherwise those dreaded pedal strikes will be apparent on a few particular spots on this trail.

When running through the straights at some point..I can't recall any squelchy squiggly feeling. If anything at all the pedaling was harder and going faster as small obstacles were "obliterated" underneath the shock. Being that reactive, "floating" the bike became much easier, rocking bodyweight fore and aft with alot less effort to get a good flow. With the rear having a mind of its own and doing it right, I had to up the compression on the fork while downing the rebound there by a tad. After that the suspensions were "talking" to each other again.

Did I mention that the rain decided to follow me on this day and with higher than usual tire pressure...I experience much lesser slipping and sliding around. All in all, could only say that form follows function for this shock and it does what it was designed to do. Traction... but not at the expense of bleeding speed in the turn as it compresses further into the travel. If anything, it pops out to  give a boost of speed but not with a quite sudden feel as to throw me off the bike. Still cannot figure how it gets so plush yet does not bob and bounce even when standing to mash up all the irritating short but steep rooty climbs around here.

Its a known fact that one of the chief complain on the Horst Link design is the kick going over square edges. Experiencing this on the climbs even at slow speed means throwing the traction off and could mean the end of a climb with a foot down on terra firma. This is something I have adjusted to on the DHX with quick weight shift when judging one is about to get me and overcompensates with a rather slow rebound.

With the Dueler.. there were deliberate and of course those rider-skills-really-sucks moments when I took bad lines ramping over rocks. The bike behavour with the Dueler exceeded expectation....clearing all but one really bad line taken. Even that didnt have that dreaded rear kicking up. Just too steep for my quads to overcome the jutting rock in a fatigued state.

Coming down? Yes, this is a 6" bomber build after all and so its important the shock has to be good on the descends. Despite all the "where is the bobbing and wallowing?"  I can't help but feel like wanting to just pull out a loaner 450lb shock, one up from what is in use and swap it there and then. As it turns out, it wasn't needed. just like on the straights and up...everything was just floating and throughout the higher speed descending sections with small drops, there wasn't a feeling of bottoming out or at least no sick end-of-travel- thud. On this last point, would have to add that it complements the slightly progressive aka rising-rate linkage curve of the EG's towards the end--much less harsher than the DHX or the original RP23 air shock.

Bunny hops from flats, and I mean the real thing, not bump hops or pulling up over an obstacle while  swishing through narrow windy tails  is something I thought wasnt very applicable during rides. Most time it requires a slow down and perfect execution. Good if your friend is snapping away so you can post up on facebook later with some "Yea that was me" smug pic to show off to the world. But after getting used to this new found reactivity and float with the shock, it was much easier to just air and let fly over foot high stuff that's usually just rolled over. So yes it rides faster better and sure is hell of a lot more fun on the trail. If I havent borrowed the term a "magic carpet ride", will  just add a twist to that because each landing (small ones, <3' so far) has this magic carpet landing feel to it as well. One last thing not tested out would be the popping off purpose built jumps and drops...something that would soon be done though.

Overall, I only have 2 niggles. The 2 compression knobs are a little small and tight to twist. While there is no frost bite to worry about taking off gloves to tweak those on the trails here, still, wet sweaty fingers trying to pinch a little knob is a bit of a pain. Secondly, it wouldnt be too difficult or costly to have the PRC adjustment on the piggy for all sizes. As pictures of it show, it is something that could be quite easily twisted by hand with more contact points to grab..it could be the ticket to a fast tweak on the trail with minimal fuss and makes for alot more happy riders with what I personally feel is an otherwise incredible component by today's standard of rear shock technology.

Simple and actually works.