an(e)vil

My photo
Existentialism-- Just a bloody good excuse to go riding...
Showing posts with label X-Fusion Vengeance HLR. Show all posts
Showing posts with label X-Fusion Vengeance HLR. Show all posts

Sunday, October 20, 2013

Initial Thoughts: X Fusion RV1 -ing the EG



RV1 - dual crown
EG -  6" frame

Can already hear the crescendo of "Noooo" in the background.... Yup, generally it wouldn't be wise to push frames this way but it this wouldn't be the first dual crowned EG.

Have to say it's totally unnecessary, having absolutely no complain with the Vengeance Coil so far. But its just tempting to see how it feels like (and maybe just maybe... to "justify a FR/DH frame in the months to come ;).

Probably not very useful for most folks but let's see what can be be discovered from X Fusion latest offering anyway.


Before launching into what's done for those that might be entertaining similar thoughts...

.... Most of the features have been covered to death by the various usual bike sites- Pinkbike, BikeRadar, Bikerumor and Vitalmtb and more..

Spec weight on official website is  2767gm which probably does not include the carbon lower guards and the axle. Bikeradar stated the claim weight by XFusion was 2902gm.

Mine came in @ 2988gm all in, uncut steerer. Minus the guard, bolts and axle its still 2833gm.

155 gm diff!  Spec weight doesn't include steerer? ... well whatever, still pretty impressive grammage for a coil dual crown.

Clockwise from top left: All in weight, carbon guards and screws
Weight with guards and axle. axle weight.
Stealth matte black with what look like an anodized finish. To be honest I just wasn't sure cause Mg anodizing certainly isn't common with parts used in the mtb industry. With the guards removed that should appeal to the no-frill camp.. But having been bashed on their earlier years graphics (remember the eagle on the gen one Vengeance?) I have to say their graphics department has come a long way. As much as an anti-carbon person.. I'm keeping those guards on if only just for the design on it.



Before & After: First thing first... getting all those numbers down

The RV1 is internally adjustable to 180 but if there is one XF fork that ran counter to the trend of  their lineup axle-to-crown measurement- the RV1 seemed to be on the short side (all others in my experience-- Vengeance, Slant and Velvet had been longer). Well of course A-C in DH fork can be adjusted somewhat by moving the lower crown, it came in with factory installed setting of 205mm, just 5mm over the full travel length.
Double method measurement for better A-C accuracy.
Vengeance 565mm. RV1 ~571mm (mfr spec @ 569mm). Diff = 6mm
Line of sight + caliper method = 6.5mm difference
I did wished for one little thing on the Vengeance Coil 170mm, just a smite more in the A-C department, with a corresponding increase in the bb center to front axle while trying to make various arm and torso reach remain the say,  or at least can be adjusted to be. Everything looks just "perfect" at least on paper without having to change travel or move the lower crown for now.

Old measurements on the Veng:
Bar Height,
BBH with Minion DHf 2.5,
Crown-stem,
BB center-front axle
Have no way to really get the HTA and STA changes accurately beyond those crude apps on the phone... so gonna leave it at that for now. Certainly the front was raking out a little more during rides. The change is perceptible each time with each A-C increment from 36Talas - Veng Air - Veng Coil and now finally the RV1.

While there is always the second lighter EG for general trailing purposes but if there are things that can be pedaled on this tank wherever its taken to... I'll rather crank it out than to push, hence the tolerance and range of the few crucial measurements are rather tight for me as to how much I can slack it out


Can only measure so much before taking the bike out and actually ride it...

Yup, made it on all the dirty loose rocky switch back ups on pedal power..

Still have to test out the various dials and coordinate with the rear shock. All I can say now is the compression and rebound damping circuits are very different from any single crown fork I ever had.
To keep the front end from running out away from me.. rebound speed is a lot slower than norm...

Screwed up shoulder says no airtime for now but the speed drops taken is a lot more confidence inspiring on this fork.

Since it was still ok getting up-- just playing with the idea of slacking it out with an angleset another 1-2 deg so as not to slacken the STA and increase bar height...


Just for comparison


And the overall weight now? Its just a number.........

More to come later.

26 Oct
After today, I'm really contemplating an angleset on this setup, if only I can be sure to keep the RV1  the EG for a while... cos the climbing was really no different from the Vengeance Coil 170mm.. pretty much is pedal power all the way on the ups. Restrictive movement of dual crown takes a little getting used to but any would have been the same.

The one thing to keep the front and rear boinks in sync was to down my rear spring now to a 350lb instead of the usual 400 that has been on the bike for the last 3 years. Still the rear is tying hard to catch up to the front that simply butter out entire root stretches and on rock gardens. But I guess a poor man DH rig like this will have to live with a little less than optimal performance. Still trying to find a sweet spot in the rebound but have a feeling I'll have to dial in the rebound on different trails more often now...










Tuesday, September 11, 2012

its fork and f@^k

A new CSU spotting additional 10mm travel and a refined crown, some weird colored lowers with the fork's original 2010 cartridges. That's my rebuilt '2010' Vengeance HLR. 

Interesting?  But really this was a result of one woe after another in what was supposed to be a simple part replacement +  normal rebuild event. Well the bonus is I now have a somewhat "80% brand new" fork and learnt a few other things about fork maintenance.

Creaky CSU after 1+ yr of usage warrantied, no questions asked.

Stanchions not moving smooth after reinstalling-- initially thought it might be some vacuum... Troubleshooting the rebuild,  seems like the old lower's alignment is off. 

Yup its probably a little crude but free the uppers,  drop the axle and see if it goes through both legs of the lowers for the alignment check.

Apparently not and the fact that I could then twist it by hand until things align wasn't very reassuring.
Actually at that point I was mumbling to meself.. "Yea this is pretty much f^%ked". Leaves me wondering if the creak was really due to the fork uppers.....

Luckily somebody have spare lowers hanging around. Hell yea its good to have friends, save me more waiting time to order from the factory.. and this one probably meant to go with a  Specialized Status.

Well, here we go again.. *disassembly* >>> *assembly*  for probably the 50th bloody time within a week...

Yup, previously mentioned on how stiff and all the fork is ... so what could have happened?...  Given how the bike gets thrown when I bail plus a few really hard falls taken with the front bearing most of the brunt... I still say it is pretty strong after all my crash-test-dummy antics spanning from Singapore to Thailand in the past ~2 years. Wouldn't blame the design or manufacturer for the multiple bendosis state of the lowers.. 

Fate of the old lowers?...hmmm maybe some "light saber" stanchions in there and hang up in the bike room as functional art providing some extra lumens when wrenching.


Things noted...

The sealed cartridge damper can take between 70-85ml of fork fluid. Recommended factory oil change is 70-75 ml with 7.5wt oil. But last week Dirty had his paws all over the damper and put in 10wt filled to the max 85ml. The verdict now from compressing the fork is that its over damped and feeling rather progressive. That wouldnt be too much of a problem as intended build of bike would run great with a stiffer front.

But oil weight/ volume probably are affecting the rebound rate... too slow even when ramped to fastest setting. The reported squishing/cavitation as some users has mentioned is likely caused by the oil volume..if it isnt filled to the max then probably that's where it comes from as the damper rod is cycled.

Going by all things observed, less oil would probably means stroke action is likely more linear but starting stroke might need to add a little more low comp to offset. Ok all these just means more mucking around with the damper unit next time.

Frankly when the old oil was first poured, I didn't think it needed to be changed but of course one can't tell how much the oil would have degraded from just the eyeball-o-meter.



The fastest way to drop the number of max clicks ~15 of your hi-comp is to install the gold ano knob in reverse. Stupid me.. luckily no damage done to this rather delicate portion of the fork. Easily rectified once you realize what's the problem.

If some black plastic washer drops out along the way (~10mm diameter) seemingly out of nowhere -- fret not, check the 2 respective nuts (as pointed by red arrows in pic below) meant to tighten down and hold down each end of your fork.

In both, underside of the nuts has a  recess for this black spacer. Just press it back in. BTW a rebuild kit should come with these new spacers... these I think are meant to be replaced and seal the hole area on the bottom end of lowers to prevent fluids (~15-20ml) in the open bath from dripping out. My old ones looks ok -- so being cheap I'm saving the new ones for future rebuilds.

DON'T skim on the 15-20ml oil to be poured into the lowers. The fork is not going to work right without it (update on 4 Oct 2012)













Wednesday, May 23, 2012

Wrenching Therapy


Try fighting failing eyesight and achieve Zen-ness without cursing through a hot sweltering humid evening at the same time. And DON"T drop those fekking nano sized bearings cocked upon the equally tiny springs right under the rebound cap....

To be frank, the fork is way past what should have been regular servicing time and the last year plus hasn't exactly been rides on the pavements. Internally its still pretty uncontaminated.


As I'm getting a new CSU (Crown Steerer Unit) to replace this current creaky one fork is given a total dismembering. Damper cartridge left intact till oil change tomorrow.

Tools-- just size 13 and 28 (or was it a 30) socket wrench bits and hex keys and a pin wrench.

  • Remove red rebound dial... tiny screw holding it can get easily rounded
  • Uber careful not drop the 2 tiny springs and detent bearings for the rebound.
  • Remove compression knobs (blue and gold) from the damper tail end. Exercise care not to hit or dent this part, else you're pretty much f**ked.
  • Remove damper cartridge by pulling out from the TOP .. if its been left too long, lubricant might have more or less dried up and requires a bit of effort to pull out.
  • Purge air chamber fully before removing spring side air valve capping unit. Depress Schraeder valve, compress stanchions fully, press to release residual air. Repeat before putting a size 28 socket wrench to open up 
These are the points that you need to be aware of and exercise caution

Where is the step by step pictorial instructions??? Not tonight... sweating globs with the usual gunked up fingers, I'm not gonna muck around with the phone-cam every few secs. If you cant dismember without having a full pictorial laid out in front of you... no offense but this level of maintenance is probably not for you now... 

To be continued....













Thursday, April 19, 2012

Suspensions

Well, no secret around this blog my choice of suspension ain't the usual mainstream brands.

New Shock
The New Dueler with a lighter 350lb was dropped off couple of days ago. No time to get mounting hardware yet.. so the spring is now on my old Dueler temporarily... Anyway figured that would be good.. will try out both springs on both the old and new shock body and see what differences there may be.. Might just turn out either one of the combo, the old 400lb coil with the new shock or the old shock with the new lighter 350 spring could be the ticket to make rides tick better...



Fork
My new Vengeance Coil is barely 5 rides old and Im already "reserving" another piece that has even yet to hit production...

What has piqued my interest in the fork department is the momentum gathering around 34mm stanchions as travel gets longer for the 32mm chasis. While no weenie for the sake of telling everyone I have the lightest bike in whatever category of bike I'm building but if a functional lightweight component is available, I'll spring for it.

Going 34mm stanchion with a slight penalty makes sense as 32mm ones pushing longer and longer travels are just getting too noodly imo.

 X-fusion certainly aint just a follower this time around... No need to wait for Bushy Tail or any of the other big names to come out with theirs. Still far from being available but at least the prototypes are already out in their upcoming 2013 lineup. Click HERE

Of particular interest to me would be a stiff enough, yet light 160. The Slant looks to fit the bill  with the description " New 34mm fork that’s good for both 26″ and, like the Velvet, works with 650B by inserting a 10mm travel limiter. It’ll come in travel options from 80mm to 160mm with two different sets of stanchions depending on stock length. Longer travel forks will get longer stanchions and can run the full range of travel options. The shorter (slightly lighter) forks run from 80mm to 120mm. Shorter stanchions on the shorter travel forks save about 0.2lbs (65g). Claimed weights are as low as 4.0lbs (1814g) maxing out around 4.4lbs (1995g) with the DLA model (160mm to 130mm). "

And maybe, just maybe my next 6" AM  build could really be a sub 27 pounder... and still complete with a dropper post and big rubbers.


But first... this mess has got to be sorted out before I can have my full workshop going, which means... more bikes... more tinkering... more TOYS!

Tuesday, January 31, 2012

X-Fusion Vengeance HLR Coil 2012

Externally it spots a cleaner graphic than previously. Definitely something I can live with on the bike. Medium spring installed and spare light and heavy coils in the box.


Lower spots the much touted Syntace X-20 tool-less axle. Looks good. Solid piece with no gap beneath which means no freaking out about cracking due overtightening pinch bolts.


Weight is just a tad (24gm) above what's stated...  but measured with full length uncut steerer in pic.
Anyway this wouldnt be a fork for gram counters.
Specs indicate 170mm travel (10mm more than previous HLR Air) with an A-C of 565mm
Mine came out to be a little more at 178mm travel and A-C of 567mm and not a cause for complain as I have been moving up the A-C to avoid having to put an angle headset on the EG.

Left: 2012 Vengeance HLR                 Right: 2010/11 Vengeance HLR


There are definitely changes from this compared to my existing 2010 X-Fusion Vengeance HLR Air. Not the Air vs Coil as that is obvisous but the crown measurement has been reduced to accomodate for the extra travel.  Width wise it is still just as beefy compared to a couple of other major brands out there.

Dials for rebound and compression stays pretty much the same.Good call. Some of the best dials till date, imo, this area XFusion has it nailed... not that many other forks can match the quality and finishing in these areas. Number of clicks on the comp and rebound stays pretty much the same. Overall I guess not much has been done to change the internal sealed cartridge damper unit but let's see how the fork work once installed.
------------------------

Update: Busy and Lazy... but finally getting down to actually installing the fork now...
First some measurements so as to know how much steerer to leave and how much spacer change to get the bar height back to current measurement


Vengeance HLR Coil, 170mm Vengeance HLR Air, 160mm Diff
Crown height 66 72 -6
Stanchion (mm) 178 163 +15
A - C (mm) 565 555 +10

Top: left-right Air Vengeance 160. actual travel 163mm, A-C 558mm
Middle: left-right Coil Vengeance170mm. Actual travel178mm, A-C 567mm
Bottom: left: 6mm lesser in new crown height and 15mm from axle to outer end. difference in actual A-C therefore only 9mm but gain in travel is 15mm over previous.




Final weight, steerer @ 180mm, with star nut, 2505gm. 235 gm increase over the Vengeance 160 Air
Taking off 23gm from the maxle lever for the TA-- 2482gm.



Hmmm..


Update... Jun 2012
With bike setup properly, wasnt a problem climbing up with the almost 180mm of front travel... Down! damn thing just fly... Will I go back to air with my beefed EG-- No frigging way.

Update.. not much riding these few months but I did brought it down to PJ for a fun weekend last month
Was broken in by then... med spring fits just fine and sync well with my lighter 350lb coil in the rear... Low comp needed a couple clicks more compared to using my old Veng Air..

No harsh topping out and travel could be used a little more than the Veng Air on the bigger hits.. (~3/8" diff). The old Vengeance Air no matter how I tweak the air travel and compressions-- have about 3/4 inch left unused.. On the new coil-- I was down to ~1/4-3/8" on a couple of G-outs.  Front tracking was noticeably better, objectively that could be due to the new tires put on though..

The syntace axle seems to get loose after awhile... but that could due to the slight tad of anti-seize i slapped on. Not a biggie as I do check on essential nuts and bolts on bike before moving off. Guess old military habits die hard.






Monday, December 6, 2010

X-Fusion Vengeance HLR

Disclaimer: This could sound like a real bias piece and I am having a hard time trying to be objective here. The often drawn comparison to an 09 TALAS is simply because this is the other fork that I am really familiar with and apart from swapping the adjustable travel for a fixed air cartridge, its essentially like a Float.. In my usual overzealous fashion, this probably covers more, making it another epic long post and lullaby read.


Apart from frames, forks usually represent the next biggest investment on a bike, The search for a new fork to replace the aging 36 TALAS had taken awhile.  Like most, I was sucked into the "longer the better" travel vortex. A 36 TALAS or FLOAT 180mm  seemed to be the most obvious choice for awhile...

...till one lazy afternoon over a bike chat session, things sidetracked to the Lyrik 170. Having tried last year's 160mm version and liking it, the 170mm looks to be a real contender.

However at the back of my mind another fork had been lurking. Having followed the development of the X-Fusion Vengeance HLR,  it looks right in just about every aspect.

By the time I was looking at the 170mm Lyrik, I reckon it wasnt really so much in the travel itself and has shaken myself out of the "longestest-possible-travel" stupor.

The TALAS had been a love hate affair. Travel adjust is a bonus on longer climbs yet the reduction throws the whole bike geometry off. Besides, 95% of the time I am on the full 160mm travel with the occasional drop to 130. So much so that the 100mm travel mode is never used. Like most, my TALAS exhibited the usual issues associated with this fork even after servicing and change of oil. The sensitivity of the dials and tracking of the fork was never stellar. Striking a balance between sensitivity and brake dive is a never ending affair.

What I really wanted apart from good tracking was a slightly slacker head angle than the 68 degrees on my bike, hence a longer A-C measurement. 170-180mm would make that slight change which is all that matters on the bigger descending charge or lofting over a big rock and have a more surefooted feel when the front falls over the other side.

Readied the bike for the change with a different bar/stem setup to achieve the same bar height in the event of a fork change. This way (hopefully) it doesn't displace my usual body positions but only have a slacker HA. The anality of this exercise is pinpoint to within ~3mm of all my other bike settings.

So why the Vengeance? As said the actual increase in 10-20mm in travel wasn't the key. Seriously if the whole 180mm travel gets dunked--its can get pretty scary. Furthermore 180mm would really test my bar-stem setup to the limit in trying to get the bar height back at the original 160mm level with the TALAS without the levers hitting the top tube as the front end turns. Things would have been much easier on this last aspect except that the sexy curve top tube on the EG also happens to be sitting pretty high compared to many other frames.


Axle-Crown Measurements
160mm Talas A-C of 545mm (as the benchmark for changes)
180mm Fox A-C of 565mm
170mm Lyrik A-C of 555mm
160mm Vengeance A-C of 557-8mm.

Last but not least, after weighing all the price : weight : performance (read) ratios-- The Vengance just puts a smile on my face. Other brands of overpriced forks just don't even come close. With a 5 day turnaround  time dealing direct with the factory...all that's left now is to check out the performance......








 Weight
Not something I ever give much thoughts to...
Left: Vengeance with uncut steerer @ 2298gm.   Center: Cut to 185mm @ 2270gm  Right: 09TALAS 2282 gm
















Without stripping the fork and having a comparable model of other brand(s), there is no way to really tell where all the weight differences are accounted for. Except that the Vengeance runs a negative coil spring with a smaller top out coil nestled within the bigger negative spring. This no doubt would have accounted for a small amount of weight from within. But the fork in general runs alot less oil inside compared to most others in the market. The open bath isnt really "open" as the cartridge sits within another tube which according  to X-fusion also helps to keep contaminants out.

A cursory inspection however immediately yields some interesting observation. If any additional weight is on the outside, then its at all the right places shoring up and reinforcing where it matters most.

Still, what mine weighed in was 100gm lighter than some other much better written reviews (those probably were earlier protos sent out before actual production lots were refined further?)

"Beef"
Lowers are definitely burly starting right off the crown. Big and broad with stiffness written all over. Matches the 1.5 headtube well too. Sliding downwards on the lowers, a non-descript bulge much like some of the RS forks Power Bulge can be seen.  Where the stanchion uppers are pressed in, this is another significant area with more material.








 Measurement from top, width of crown on the Vengeance nearing steerer measured ~51 - 45mm (towards the dials). In comparison the TALAS is ~45mm tapering down to ~38mm. Where the stanchions are pressed in, its an additional 5mm more than the TALAS. Accounting for more stiffness? but no doubt surely contributed to part of the A-C increase


Trace it down further, the reinforcement at the dropout area is well thought out. Where the forces of impacts are great, lots of materials are in place to cater for those forces generated.

Left: 36 TALAS  Right: Vengeance HLR






Overall from top to bottom I thought it was more like a 38mm stanchion fork if there ever was one and had to take out my calipers to phyiscally measure to get that thought out of my mind.

Knobs and Dials
Big and the clicks are very positive. Easily adjusted with gloved hands for all 3 from rebound on top to the high and low compressions below. Protective capping for the compression is the nicest I have seen on any fork. Some have commented that the adjustment between rebound clicks is too wide. Maybe it matters to the pros but with 21 clicks, its more than plenty for me to dial in the rebound.

I was simply awed by the finishing on the compression knobs and if you can call it the "ergonomics". The positive indentation of each click takes out any guesswork if you are ever sweating, puffing and making adjustments on the fly in the trail.
really need to get a real camera and not rely on the phone-cam!


First ride out... Sun 28 Nov

Settings
Time and again reviews have mentioned how the recommended air settings are pretty much spot on as printed on the lower left fork leg. It worked well enough for the first ride though some fine tuning will be done real soon. At 160-175lb its 60-67 psi for me

Pinned it to 63psi at my geared up weight of ~170lb. Lo-comp 5 out of 15 clicks and Hi comp at 7 out of 14. Rebound set at 15 of 21 clicks were adjusted to 17 on the trail.

(Tire pressure on the 2.4 Ardents at 20 and 23 psi front and rear respectively).

Time was short, by the time everything was set up it was late afternoon. Off I scooted to the nearest trail.. Tampines. Havent been back since it was re-opened. Though short, but was a little surprised as it's actually pretty smooth and flowy. Nice little berms to carve into and undulations that can test out if the suspension works well enough at speed to float off the top of the soil with the right momentum. Perfect.

No significant dive or excessive bob upfront where most of the ups were squared away with pedaling standing up in the roller coaster trail. None of those XC ass to the saddle spinning needed even with a big fork.

Passing mark with one of my initial concern- rounding a switchback climb. With long travel and burly bikes the last thing is to bleed speed to a crawl during the switchback turn and in turns loses all the momentum to roll up the climbing portion. Problem is the potential to approach too fast and unable to turn in time with a front that starts skipping. Key is the combination of right tire/pressure and good working suspensions to track as one leans the bike without excessive braking.

Next up the series of camel humps. Fork was nice with a firm feel, cresting each one, it takes no effort for the front to lift and put the entire bike into the air. After that it didnt take much for me to ride at the fastest and take every small little undulation to pop the bike into the air and dropping right into the wider berms instead of just riding through them.

In between, the little rock gardens was another good test. Bike goes through everything at speed without the slightest hesitation. Touchdown was surefooted and yes, the slight increase in the A-C making an ever small correction to the HA on the bike was definitely what I was looking for going down. Mentally extrapolating the feeling here to those km long rocky DH lines, reckon I just found my pot of gold boink in this fork.

Throughout, the front was feeling "bottomless" though like any air fork the degree of progressiveness can be felt as it eats into more of the travel. Launching off a rock drop during a descent that usually require more effort and mentally prepping the preloading to lift off was a no brainer here. The front has a mind of its own and just did everything right leaving me to focus ahead on landing. Was definitely going way smoother, akin to skipping rock on water surface. I dont remember having it so easy on the TALAS previously.

The closest in feel would be like Marz smoothness when those suckers don't get stuck down or start crapping oil all over. Comparing it to the Float or Lyrik "feel", somehow those forks while buttery smooth, do impart a somewhat hollow airiness. None of that here. I don't know if having a coil negative spring made things a little different and better. Fork internals are still a relatively complex subject for my understanding.

One thing noticed was the cavitation coming out of the fork. A little distracting but doesnt seem to be affecting performance in any way. I was deducing if the oil level was just that wee bit off and hence the noise. Later a check in a few forum threads shows that this was common and doesnt seem to be an issue in any way.

Overall I think I stumbled onto more of a jump setting although it does ride well enough. But this was a relatively smooth flowy trail with not much in terms of chatter bumps or technical climbs except on the few purpose built rock garden sections.


Second ride out... Sun Dec 5
Everyone was bitching about the slickness in BT from a whole week of heavy rain. A climbing nightmare as usual on SG's oldest official MTB trail.

Observation from last ride says the most logical setting for today's trail is to back off both compressions.
Did that and tracking on slow tech climb was better. Added 2 clicks halfway in to the lap to the rebound making it 19 out of a max of 21 was the biggest positive change. "Lightens" up, making for more positive steering control. I was able to pump the fork more effectively on the faster down and stay in better control. Already mentioned was how positive the dials are but the difference in actual change to the rebound in  1-2 click on this fork is really night and day compared to similar changes on the TALAS.

Nothing negative to comment when the bike is pointed down. Met all my expectations and more. Easy to preload even when coming down fast and let fly on a couple of small drops that usually was just drop in when on the old TALAS.

On the up, the effect of that 1.5cm higher A-C meant having to adjust my weight a little more than usual even though bar height remained as before. Could partly be a case of again changing too many things at once. The 760mm flat bar had been mated to a 70mm stem before. Today its on the new Po1nt Split Sec stem. 20mm shorter.

My heavy overbuilt, low tire pressure setup, a curse when dry is the XC guy's nemesis in the wet.

Didnt meet too many spinning lycra boys today but all the ones I past heaving as their bikes probably went slipping and sliding on the way up probably wondered if there was a Gruber Assist in the EG. Overtaking some of the other bigger bikes in today's ride meant having to get out of the best line and just tear at whatever opening there is. Front tracking was great matching the dialled in rear but the increase A-C effect was really noticeable. More dialling in with the comp settings on next ride to see if that will help.

Let's see what happens 6 months down the road and a couple of trips on bigger course brings. Fork search ended for now.....until the need for a dual crown arise.


Update 23 May 2012: After 20 mths of of trashing around on this fork I have to say it has not really disappointed. From flattish xc in Singapore to mountains in Chiang Mai.. basically I never once had a thought of changing to another fork. As to things like tuning with a different weightof oil and things like that-- I guess this is best left to the home wrenching freaks to figure out what works for them. A change to10w was awesome for a friend but not for me which worked just fine with the stock oil of the damper cartridge. Slick Honeyed inside out was proabably the best thing I did to make everything work as smooth as possible could.

Just that since the new Vengeance Coil is out earlier this year,I decided to go for it and have a full rebuild on this Vengeance Air. Had a bit of a creaky problem (I wouldn't exactly pin it to manufacturing faults-- fact is with bigger stiffer fork, there is a great chance creaks will come along, sooner or later. TO be frank I have been smacking the fork pretty hard with my less than skilful riding)  Sent for a new CSU... waiting out for it to arrive and should finish the rebuld here.