Try fighting failing eyesight and achieve Zen-ness without cursing through a hot sweltering humid evening at the same time. And DON"T drop those fekking nano sized bearings cocked upon the equally tiny springs right under the rebound cap....
To be frank, the fork is way past what should have been regular servicing time and the last year plus hasn't exactly been rides on the pavements. Internally its still pretty uncontaminated.
As I'm getting a new CSU (Crown Steerer Unit) to replace this current creaky one fork is given a total dismembering. Damper cartridge left intact till oil change tomorrow.
Tools-- just size 13 and 28 (or was it a 30) socket wrench bits and hex keys and a pin wrench.
- Remove red rebound dial... tiny screw holding it can get easily rounded
- Uber careful not drop the 2 tiny springs and detent bearings for the rebound.
- Remove compression knobs (blue and gold) from the damper tail end. Exercise care not to hit or dent this part, else you're pretty much f**ked.
- Remove damper cartridge by pulling out from the TOP .. if its been left too long, lubricant might have more or less dried up and requires a bit of effort to pull out.
- Purge air chamber fully before removing spring side air valve capping unit. Depress Schraeder valve, compress stanchions fully, press to release residual air. Repeat before putting a size 28 socket wrench to open up
Where is the step by step pictorial instructions??? Not tonight... sweating globs with the usual gunked up fingers, I'm not gonna muck around with the phone-cam every few secs. If you cant dismember without having a full pictorial laid out in front of you... no offense but this level of maintenance is probably not for you now...
To be continued....