M-Board spiffing

Yet another salvaged  piece... my old Sigma cube that has fallen into the Abyss of Spares bin got rummaged out for a new lease of life permanently affixed on the MBoard now. Simple enough with a a longer M3 screw (taken off an old ODI lock ring), couple of washers to flatten up the countersunk area on the board meant for the original screw.

The tightening plastic cap for the handle lasted like 20 mins on the first test ride before they disappeared into the dark.... Mounted underneath, under constant vibration..... hmmm presto! screw thread was same as a bike 9mm QR. If there is a shitload of spares I have, its QR since most of my bikes are either TA or 10mm bolt-on these days. QR ends with the serrated surface should now be able to bite and  grip to do a proper job here.

Just like my kiddo days... first thing I do is to open up all my toys.... Quick check. all seem ok... no leaking battery. Wires are nicely siliconed at the ends. All I did was to push a few strands further away from the charging connector area (just to be safe)

Ok time to screw the board back... the mess of wires in there looks like Egyptian hieroglyphics... ain't attempting to decipher it in my sinus filled state. Not that I know very much in this department anyway.

Everything seems well waterproofed with the board screwed on. Except the folding hinge, it would need some gap... Not that I'm gonna ride in the pouring rain but this is the only ingress area paranoid me can think off. Should be easy to mod a plastic slot cover with just a cutout for the wire ... Later.

Now comes my biggest rant for most e.kickscooters in the market. Due to the inherent designs, not many are running a proper headset. If at all, those are mostly threaded headsets. Some have an additional arching strut to lock things in place but with usually just one pivot point, it still does not solve the "play" issue.   Few hard rides and play will develop at the strut pivot which in turn translates back to the same irritating fore-aft movement.

Not that this is anything particularly wrong with the M-Board but take any e.kickskoot in the market now, press the front brake and rock... almost every one of them will display some fore-aft shakiness.

The M-Board works on a hinge concept to allow rotation.... peering close.. it seems to boil down to the brass(?) washers top and bottom. Top one as shown in pic

I'm thinking if having a slightly thicker and hard wearing bushing (maybe something from Igus?)
might solve the issue....In a way that will act like headset bearings or pivot bushing on bike suspension lnkages.. Will need to maintain and change but at least could solve the "problem"

Ok 99% of people probably aren't bothered with such trifle movements... yea yea yea.. its just me being me forever going with all those tight tolerances of machined parts in my head and giving myself a massive headache for no reason....

Anyway too much to disassemble tonite while nursing a flu to analysze further.... gonna brainstorm more later.

Range >> 36-40km?
Quite likely. On a mix of turbo and econ mode meter says 11km (meter doesnt have decimal point) with a remaining voltage of 38.1V. Since it started off with 41.5v fully charge, the total drop for the distance travelled so far is 3.4v and the cutoff for a battery like this should be ~31v:

Working backward, theoretially it should give (11km/3.4v) x (41.5v - 31.0v) = 33.97km
If its actually nearer to 12km (say 11.9km) then it would be (11.9km/3/4v) x (41.5-31.0) = 36.75km
Anyway more than half was on rough pavement with lots of start-stop. On smoother continuous scooting only on econ mode would probably have been more efficient.

Max speed
On turbo- my max was topping out in a range of 30.2km/h - 30.8km/h
Have to find another long flat stretch to test another couple more times later
But in any case, its quite enough. 99% of the time I would probably not be going that fast especially when out and about running errands with lots of human traffic around.